如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級：下篇

勃艮第的一級園是在第二次世界大戰期間，於1943年才建立的等級，雖處戰亂，卻在極短的時間將許多葡萄園升為一級園，主要可能是為了應對德國佔領區不強徵列級園的政策。

當時不屬於德國佔領區的勃艮第南部產區，因無此急迫性，所以沒有建立一級園的分級，至今，馬貢內區仍未建立任何一級園的分級系統。不過，區內的普依-富塞等產區已經開始朝一級園努力，薄若萊也希望在將來可以建立更詳細的分級。

因為行政區的劃分與距離的因素，薄若萊、馬貢內和夏隆內丘等三個南部產區自成一個酒商銷售系統。1874年， Antoine Budker曾經針對這三個產區建立了一份分級名單，1893年發表在由 Danguy和 Vermorel合著的書中。三個地區知名酒村的主要葡萄園都一一被列入五個等級，例如弗勒莉的 Poncie， MoulinVent的 Clos des Thorins和 Rocheg，梅克雷的 Champ-Martin-吉弗裡的 Clos Salomon等都名列一級。

夏布利的分級發展跟金丘區有些不同，在根瘤蚜蟲病之後，夏布利的葡萄園只剩數百公頃，並沒有全部重新種植，因此在分級時，還涉及許多尚未種植葡萄的土地，有較多的爭議。

在1938年成立 Chablis法定產區時，特別成立委員會來界定產區範圍，必須是 Kimmeridgian時期的岩層和土壤才能成為生產夏布利的葡萄園。在同一年，也建立了特級園的分級，一共有七片列級，共同成為一個法定產區，不各自獨立。不過，夏布利的一級園卻是比較晚近才發展出來的分級，到1967年才由村莊級中再分出一級園，原有二十四片葡萄園列級，但現在已經增加到七十九個。

勃艮第葡萄園的分級一開始是建立在葡萄園的歷史因素與知名度上，並非完全以葡萄園的自然條件與潛力為標準，在分級的時候也很少有精確的地質研究作為參考基礎。現在經過歷年來的修改與更正，整體看起來，大致稱得上詳盡與完善，但是跟所有分級一樣，絕對不是勃艮第葡萄酒質量的絕對標準，一級園或村莊級的葡萄酒優於特級園的並不少見。

勃艮第將一片獨立的葡萄園稱為 climat，雖然有等級上的差別，但更重要的是都自有個性，若論個人的風格喜好，有許多獨特的村莊酒也可能位元級園或一級園更迷人。更何況因年份、樹齡、種植與釀造方法等諸多因素，產自同一個 climat的葡萄酒也常有不同的風格表現。

Burgundy‘s first-class garden was established in 1943 during the Second World War。 Although it was at war， many vineyards were upgraded to first-class garden in a very short period of time， mainly in response to Germany。 The policy of not enlisting ranks of parks in the occupied areas is not enforced。

At that time， the southern Burgundy production area， which was not part of the German occupation area， had no urgency， so there was no classification of first-class gardens。 To date， no classification system for first-class gardens has been established in Magonny。 However， Puy-Fusse and other production areas in the region have begun to work towards the first-level park， and Beaujolais hopes to establish more detailed classification in the future。

Due to the division of the administrative area and the distance， the three southern producing areas such as Beaujolais， Magonnet， and Chalonnet have established their own wine sales system。 In 1874， Antoine Budker established a hierarchical list of these three producing areas， and published it in a book co-authored by Danguy and Vermorel in 1893。 The main vineyards of the well-known wine villages in the three regions have been listed in five grades， such as Poncie in Fleur， Clos des Thorins and Rocheg in MoulinVent， and Clos Salomon in Champ-Martin-Gifry， Mekré， etc。 Are ranked first。

The classification development of Chablis is somewhat different from that of Jinqiu District。 After the rhizobium aphid disease， the vineyards of Chablis only have hundreds of hectares and have not been replanted。 Therefore， when grading， many lands not yet planted with grapes were involved。 It has much controversy。

When the Chablis legal area was established in 1938， a special committee was established to define the area。 The rock formations and soil of the Kimmeridgian period must be the vineyards that produce Chablis。 In the same year， the grading of the super park was also established， with a total of seven ranks， which together became a legal production area， not independent of each other。 However， Chablis’ first-class garden was developed relatively recently。 Only in 1967， the first-class garden was separated from the village level。 The original twenty-four vineyards were ranked， but now it has increased to seven。 Nineteen。

The classification of Burgundy vineyards was initially based on the historical factors and popularity of the vineyards。 It was not entirely based on the natural conditions and potential of the vineyards， and there were few accurate geological studies as a reference when grading。 Now， after years of revisions and corrections， it looks like it can be called exhaustive and complete as a whole， but like all classifications， it is definitely not an absolute standard for the quality of Burgundy wines。 First-class or village-level wines are better than special-class parks。 Is not uncommon。

Burgundy refers to an independent vineyard as climat。 Although there are differences in grades， it is more important to have its own personality。 If you prefer personal style， there are many unique village wines。 The level garden is more charming。 What‘s more， wines from the same climat often have different styles due to many factors such as year， tree age， planting and brewing methods。