BBC，你再這樣做蛋炒飯，全球網友要怒了！

尚恩教育-一站式解決你的英語考試問題

文章來自CNN， 由尚恩教育翻譯整理

On July 8， Malaysian comedian Nigel Ng uploaded to YouTube a videotitled “DISGUSTED by this Egg Fried Rice Video，” under his comedic persona “Uncle Roger。”

7月8日，馬來西亞喜劇演員Nigel Ng以他喜劇角色``羅傑叔叔‘’的名義，將一段名為``被這個雞蛋炒飯噁心到了‘’的影片上傳到YouTube。

In the video， Ng slammedBBC Food presenter Hersha Patel‘s unconventional way of cooking Chinese-style egg-fried rice， which included draining the rice through a strainer after boiling。

在影片中，Ng抨擊了英國廣播公司食品主持人赫莎·帕特爾（Hersha Patel）以非常規方式烹飪中式雞蛋炒飯的方法，其中包括將大米煮沸後透過過濾器瀝乾。

“What she doing？ Oh my god。 You’re killing me， woman。 Drain the —— she‘s draining rice with colander！ How can you drain rice with colander？ This is not pasta！” he exclaimed。

“天吶，這個人，她在做什麼？你要殺了我。瀝乾……她用漏勺瀝乾米飯！！怎麼能用漏勺瀝乾米飯？這又不是義大利麵！”他大叫到。

Shortly afterward， he groaned， “You’re ruining the rice，” as Patel used tap water to wash it of starch。

緊接著，NG又大叫，“你在毀了米飯呀”，當他看到Patel用自來水將澱粉洗淨的時候。

What Ng intended to be a comedic video sparked a firestorm of dismay and disbelief as it ricocheted around the internet， gaining more than 7 million views on YouTube and nearly 40 million on Twitter。

Ng原本是打算製作成喜劇影片釋出到網上的！殊不知卻因為影片引起了大範圍的沮喪和懷疑而火了！在YouTube上獲得了超過700萬的觀看次數，在Twitter上獲得了近4000萬的觀看次數。

Many viewers， including Asian-American celebrities such as writer Jenny Yang， derided Patel‘s methods for departing from how Chinese egg-fried rice is traditionally made。 Patel hadn’t washed the rice before boiling it。 She had added too much water。 She should have used day-old rice。 The scrambled egg was overcooked instead of runny。

許多觀眾，包括作家詹妮·楊（Jenny Yang）等亞裔美國人名人，都嘲笑Patel擺脫傳統中國雞蛋炒飯的製作方式。比如她在煮米之前沒有洗過米。她加了太多水。她應該用大米飯。並且炒雞蛋應該要煮熟。

“THIS RICE COOKING IS A HATE CRIME，” Yang joked on Twitter。

楊在推特上開玩笑說：``這種飯烹飪是一種仇恨犯罪。‘’

Ng， who is based in London， tried to defuse the situation by filming a short clip with Patel announcing they are planning a collaboration。 “While this guy‘s blown up like nobody’s business， I‘ve been trolled，” Patel said in the video， claiming she had been simply presenting the BBC’s recipe and that “I know how to cook rice。”

居住在倫敦的Ng試圖透過與Patel合拍一個短片來化解這種尷尬的情況，並宣佈他們將進行合作。帕特爾在影片中說：``儘管這傢伙沒有因為影片受到任何的不好的影響，而我卻被淪陷了。‘’她聲稱她只是在介紹英國廣播公司提供的食譜，並且說``我知道如何煮飯。‘’

The BBC has not publicly commented on Ng‘s or Patel’s remarks。

英國廣播公司（BBC）尚未公開評論Ng或Patel的言論。

Rice is a staple ingredient in Asia， and has been adopted by cuisines globally since it was first domesticated in China more than 9，400 years ago， according to Chinese researchers。 There are countless ways to prepare rice —— you can steam it， fry it， simmer it slowly in broth like Italian risotto or scorch it to develop a crispy crust like Iranian tahdig。

根據中國研究人員的說法，大米是亞洲國家的主食！自9400年前在中國首次被馴化以來，已被全球各地所接納。製備米飯的方法有著無數種-你可以將其蒸煮，油炸，或像義大利燴飯那樣在肉湯中慢燉或將其燒焦以形成酥脆的米餅，例如伊朗的tahdig。

But the issue at hand goes beyond a difference in opinion on the varying methods of cooking rice。

但是，眼下的問題超出了對煮飯方法的不同意見。

The controversy over the BBC Food clip， and the reaction it provoked within certain Asian communities， speaks to a broader， long-standing debate about the intersection of food， ethnicity and culture —— the fundamental question of who is allowed to cook what food。

英國廣播公司（BBC）食品片段的爭議及其在某些亞洲社群引起的反應，引發了關於食物，種族和文化交匯的更廣泛及長期的辯論，即允許誰烹飪哪種食物的根本問題。

Appropriating and whitewashing food

適當清洗食物

Countless White chefs in recent years have been accused of cultural appropriation by creating food from other ethnic groups using methods and phrases that are deemed “unauthentic，” disrespectful， and sometimes outright racist。

近年來，無數白人廚師被指控透過使用其他種族和民族的方法和措辭製造食品，這些方法和短語被認為是“不真實的”，不尊重的，有時甚至是種族主義的。

Last year， for instance， an Asian food critic accused celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay of tokenism， after he launched a restaurant described in promotional material as “an authentic Asian eating house。”

例如，去年，一名亞洲美食評論家指責名人廚師戈登·拉姆齊（Gordon Ramsay）是象徵主義，此前他在開設的一家餐廳的宣傳材料上稱其為“正宗的亞洲飲食店”。

The restaurant didn‘t differentiate between wildly different and unique types of Asian cuisines， lumping them all together as generically Asian。 And at the time of the opening， it did not appear to have any Asian chefs。

而這家餐廳沒有對亞洲風味的不同和獨特型別進行區分，將它們統稱為亞洲風味。在開幕之時，似乎也沒有亞洲廚師。

“Japanese？ Chinese？ It’s all Asian， who cares，” wrote the critic， Angela Hui， in a scathing Instagram story。

評論家安吉拉·許（Angela Hui）在Instagram故事中寫道：``日本人？中國人？都是亞洲人誰在乎。‘’

CNN reached out to Ramsay‘s restaurant group for comment after the initial controversy。

在爭議出現後，有人試圖與Ramsay的餐廳集團取得聯絡，想看看他們對此有什麼想說的！

Tokenism is when racial， ethnic， or cultural diversity is emphasized only on a symbolic level， without much substantial effort to understand that culture —— in Ramsay’s case， labeling a restaurant “Asian” without taking the time to differentiate between these individual nuanced cuisines。

象徵主義是指僅象徵性地強調種族，族裔或文化多樣性，而無需花大力氣來理解這種文化-在Ramsay這種情況下，只需將餐廳貼上“亞洲”的標籤，而不用花時間來區分這些有著差異性的美食。

Food is not just sustenance， it carries history and heritage， which is why many people are deeply offended when these traditional methods of cookingare cast aside。

食物不僅是寄託，還具有歷史和傳承，這就是為什麼拋棄這些傳統的烹飪方法會令許多人深感不安。

Sometimes chefs don‘t just change up cooking methods， they blatantly insult the cuisine and culture of origin。

有時，廚師不僅改變烹飪方法，還公然侮辱美食及其起源文化。

One notorious example is the Chinese-inspired restaurant Lucky Lee’s in New York。 When it opened in 2019， the White owner said it would serve “clean” food that wouldn‘t make people feel “bloated and icky” afterwards —— the implication being that regular Chinese food was somehow unhealthy。 That sparked uproar and the restaurant closedeight months later。

一個臭名昭著的例子是紐約的中國餐廳Lucky Lee’s。白人老闆在2019年開業時表示，將提供“清潔”食品，此後不會使人們感到“腫脹和噁心”-這意味著普通的中國食品在某種程度上不健康。這引起了軒然大波，餐廳在八個月後就關門大吉了。

And then there are chefs who fail to acknowledge a dish‘s ethnic origins at all —— the equivalent of whitewashing food。

然後，有些廚師甚至根本不承認這道菜的族裔淵源-相當於將食物的背景文化抹去。

The New York Times food columnist Alison Roman， also a White woman， gained internet fame for her recipe for a “Spiced Chickpea Stew with Coconut and Turmeric”—— which sounds an awful lot like an Indian or Jamaican curry。 But in an interview with Jezebel， she said： “I’m like y‘all， this is not a curry 。。。 I’ve never made a curry。” Roman‘s refusal to call it a curry and her denial of its ethnic background prompted critic Roxana Hadadi to call it “colonialism as cuisine。”

《紐約時報》美食專欄作家艾莉森·羅曼（Alison Roman），也是一位白人婦女，以其“椰子和薑黃加香料鷹嘴豆燉菜”的配方而在網際網路上聲名起-聽起來像印度或牙買加咖哩。但在接受耶洗別（Jezebel）採訪時，她說：``我就像所有人，這不是咖哩……我從來沒有做過咖哩。’‘羅曼拒絕稱其為咖哩，並且否認其種族背景，促使評論家羅哈納·哈達迪（Roxana Hadadi）稱其為“殖民主義式美食”。

In response to the backlash， NYT eventually added a line in Roman’s recipe on their website， saying it “evokes stews found in South India and parts of the Caribbean。”

為了應對這種強烈反應，NYT最終在他們網站上的Roman食譜中添加了一行內容，稱其“喚起了在南印度和加勒比海部分地區發現的燉菜”。

But some people have pushed back against the idea of Gatekeeping food prevents innovation， some say：for instance， fusion foods are born from chefs experimenting with different cuisines。 Many also point out that food is meant to be shared， and its power is often directly tied to the communal eating experience。

但是有些人反對使用一些方式阻止食品創新的想法，有人說：例如，融合食品是廚師嘗試不同美食而產生的。許多人還指出，食物是要共享的，其力量通常直接與公共飲食經驗聯絡在一起。

Setting boundaries around food —— for example， saying only Chinese people can cook Chinese food， or Chinese food can only be cooked a certain way， as those reacting to Ng‘s video posit —— seems like the antithesis of this sharing spirit in our globalized world。

在食物周圍設定界限-例如，說只有中國人才能煮中國菜，或者只能以某種方式煮中國菜，以及那些人對Ng的錄影帶做出的反應-似乎都是在反對這種共享精神。

But sharing is different from appropriating without respect， especially when the chefs who do it profit from portraying those foods。

但是分享與不加尊重是不同的，特別是當分享這些菜餚的廚師從描繪這些食物中獲利時。

A reckoning in food media

美食媒體的罪惡代價

The Uncle Roger video is the latest in a string of incidents that have drawn attention to issues surrounding food and culture。 This summer has seen the reckoning on race and racism， embodied by the Black Lives Matter movement， spread from the streets to newsrooms and companies。

羅傑叔叔的影片是一系列事件中最新的一個，但也確實引起了人們對食品和文化問題的關注。今年夏天，Black Lives Matter運動體現了人們對種族和種族主義的看法。

Within food media， Bon Appetit —— owned by Conde Nast —— is the best-known example。 Current staffers， including assistant food editor Sohla El-Waylly， accused the company of underpaying and exploiting employees of color， and viewers called out the brand for numerous instances of food appropriation。

在食品媒體中，Conde Nast擁有的Bon Appetit是最著名的例子。目前的工作人員，包括食品助理編輯Sohla El-Waylly，都指責該公司欠薪和剝削有色人種。

For instance， irate viewers pointed to the time Bon Appetit had a White chef demonstrate how to cook Vietnamese pho， with the title “PSA： This Is How You Should Be Eating Pho。” There was also the time they “reinvented” the Filipino dessert Halo-halo by stuffing it with gummy bears and popcorn， spurring scorn from readers。

例如，憤怒的觀眾指出又一次Bon Appetit讓白人廚師示範如何烹飪越南河粉，標題是“ PSA：這就是你應該吃的河粉”。有時他們還透過將軟糖熊和爆米花塞入菲律賓甜點（Holo-holo）中以此稱為“重新發明”，從而引起讀者的嘲笑。

Each time， the brand would issue an apology and a promise to do better —— but it has been happening for years。

每次，該品牌都會道歉並承諾做得更好-但它已經發生了很多年了。

After this summer’s explosive allegations， the company released a statement in June， acknowledging that “BA‘s recipes for Vietnamese pho， mumbo sauce， flaky bread， and White-guy kimchi all erased these recipes’ origins or， worse， lampooned them。”

在今年夏天爆發爆炸性指控後，該公司在6月發表宣告，承認“ BA的越南河粉，濃湯，片狀麵包和白傢伙泡菜的食譜都抹掉了這些食譜的起源，或者更糟的是，這些菜譜都被惡搞了”。

“In all these cases and more， BA has been called out for appropriation， for decontextualizing recipes from non-White cultures， and for knighting ‘experts’ without considering if that person should， in fact， claim mastery of a cuisine that isn‘t theirs，” wrote Joey Hernandez， BA’s research director， in the statement。

“在所有這些情況下，BA都被要求撥款，將非白人文化的食譜進行去文化處理，以及為‘專家’授勳，而無需考慮該秘密食譜是否出自這個人！”，BA的研究主管Joey Hernandez在宣告中寫道。

The Bon Appetit debacle also prompted other questions about biases within established institutions。 Who chooses what dishes get more coverage？ Why do publications continue to use language that frames “ethnic” food as occasionally bizarre and often incomprehensible —— for example， Bloomberg calling tofu a “white， chewy and bland” food people are “learning to love？” Bloomberg eventually removed these phrases from their article after international backlash。

Bon Appetit的崩潰也在業界引發了一些爭議？誰能選擇覆蓋更多文化的菜式呢？ 為什麼一些出版物繼續使用一些言辭將“族裔”食物描述為奇怪而又常常難以理解？例如，彭博社稱豆腐為人們可以從中學會愛的“白色，耐嚼且平淡”的食物？彭博社最終在遭到國際反對後從他們的文章中刪除了這些短語。

And why are “ethnic” chefs —— a euphemism for non-Whites —— often paid less？ Bon Appetit fans were further outraged when Somali chef Hawa Hassanrevealed last month that she was only paid $400 per video， and El-Waylly blasted Bon Appetit for only paying her $50，000 to “assist mostly white editors with significantly less experience than me。”

為什麼“族裔”廚師（非白人的委婉說法）通常會得到更低的報酬？上個月，BA的粉絲異常憤怒，因為他們得知索馬利亞廚師哈瓦·哈桑（Hawa Hassan）每錄一支影片只能得到400美元。更過分的是，艾爾·威利（El-Waylly）爆料Bon Appetit只向她提供了5萬美元，以“幫助大多數白人剪輯師，他們的經驗比我少得多”。

These themes sound abstract at times —— but they‘re linked to and help perpetuate broaderreal-life inequalities such as workplace discrimination， pay inequity， power imbalances and prevailing Whiteness in the food world。

這些歧視有時聽起來很抽象-但它們卻是與更廣泛的現實生活中的不平等聯絡在一起，並使其得以長期存在，例如工作場所中的歧視，薪酬不平等，權力不平衡以及食品界普遍存在的白人至上。

Ng and Patel may not have intended for their respective videos， and upcoming collaboration， to raise these questions。

Ng和Patel可能並沒有打算針對各自的影片以及即將進行的合作提出這些問題。

But viewers’ frustrations are inherently tied to the idea that there is an authentic way to cook fried rice， and that Patel‘s errors are made worse by the fact she is a non-Chinese chef presenting herself as an authority on the dish。

但是觀眾的挫敗感與一種真正的炒飯方式有關，而Patel的錯誤則因她是一位非中國廚師卻在中國菜上表現出權威。

“FOR ANYONE WHO IS TRYING TO SAY THERE ARE MULTIPLE WAYS OF COOKING RICE， WELL OF COURSE THERE ARE。 AND I LOVE THEM ALL，” tweeted Yang， the Asian American writer。 “BUT THIS IS *NOT* HOW YOU MAKE DELICIOUS FRIED RICE， THE DISH OF MY PEOPLES， THE SUBJECT OF THIS VIDEO。”

亞裔美國人作家楊在推特上說：“有人會說飪米飯的方式多種多樣的，ok，是的，我承認，而且這些方式我很喜歡。” “但你做的確實不是美味的炒飯，不是屬於我們的一道美食，也跟這個影片的主題不符。”

完。

每一道菜背後都承載著一段歷史，一種文化和無數個家庭！雖然有入鄉隨俗之說，但是我們還是希望每一種文化都能被尊重，每一道好吃的菜都可以傳遍全球！ 也希望大家可以學好英語，把我們的文化傳播出去！ 當然，如果想要學英語，可以找尚恩教育哦！

更多一手資訊請關注我們的百家號“尚恩教育”，我們會在第一時間給您推送專業、即時的資訊哦！